Jura, The Hebrides, Scotland, June 2019

I have recently returned from a fortnight on the isle of Jura in the Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland (and hence managed to avoid all the horrid weather being endured across England!). Although we were there two years ago and had taken a large number (hundreds) of photos of gravestones on Jura and Islay at that time, I was able to find more this time round too.

The beautiful setting of Kilnave chapel, isle of Islay, Scotland

We accidentally came across Kilnave chapel, an enchanting burial ground in an idyllic remote setting on the northern part of the island of Islay – the ancient chapel (14th-early 15thC) is a romantic ruin overlooking the bay and on one side are the older gravestones, plus an ancient high cross (5th-8thC) ; and on the north side a new extension – still being used for new burials.

The ancient cross at Kilnave, Islay

The cross is worn and broken, and the intricate carvings are difficult to capture on an ordinary photograph (I'd love to do some RTI on it!) but still impressive. It doesn’t have the magnificent carvings of the Kilchoman and Kidalton crosses elsewhere on Islay, but it certainly has its own unique charisma.

Old ledger stones nestled into the grass at Kilnave - a common sight in  Hebridean churchyards

I also re-visited Bowmore where the beautiful round church dominates the high street of this bustling little town. 

The round church at Bowmore, Islay

After taking numerous photos of the older gravestones, I found that a large new extension has been added at the back – and repeatedly I was profoundly moved by the plethora of ephemeral gifts left by relatives at the gravesides. 

No headstone, but many grave gifts create a loving memorial at Bowmore

I admit I have a particular interest in this aspect of graveyards – these items represent the deepest and most heartfelt emotions, even more so than the much more permanent headstones, and as such they perform an essential function in the grieving process. 

A particularly touching graveside with a status of the deceased's pet dog, at Bowmore, Islay

They are discouraged in most English churchyards, but appear to be more accepted by the authorities in Scottish churchyards.

And another churchyard that I have been to before, but wanted to re-visit, was at Kilchoman (just down the road from the Kilchoman whisky distillery – paid a return visit there as well!). Here there is another abandoned church – but this is a Victorian church, making the setting less romantic than at Kilnave, and a little sadder. 

A very interesting old ledger gravestone at Kilchoman, Islay, with a naïve effigy sculpture

The old burial ground was much more overgrown than when I came here a couple of years ago, but perhaps it was just because I came between ground maintenance sessions.  

A fine medieval ledger at Kilchoman, Islay, with heraldic crest, skull and crossbones

I was wanting to take a couple of better photographs of a selection of old gravestones, and was able to do so on this lovely sunny day. 

Typical medieval ledger of the Hebrides - 

this one at Kilchoman, Islay, bears a sword flanked by "Celtic" style embellishments

In the new burial ground next door I came across a monumental mason working on a new inscription being added to an existing memorial. He very helpfully explained the technique he was using of applying a strip of lead to the stone, and then chiselling out the letters. 

Jane Lunnon